It feels like I've been longing forever. But the past week the time had finally came. It was time to go surfing!
I got to borrow a board from my friend Ryan's friend Brandon (who had one of the most charming dog's I've ever met) and I hired a wet suit from the local surf shop in Pacifica/Linemar. It was a pretty beginner friendly beach, but I had a hard time in the water. The water was cold and I felt so fucking weak (maybe because I had been drinking to 5 the night before and catched 5 hours of sleep). My arms weren't strong enough to get me out as far as I wanted. Frustrating as hell. And I only managed to stand on one wave. But hey, it was actually two years since I surfed the last time. What's more important is that I finally got to do it again. And it definitely once again sparked my surf flame. Now I'm trying to do push ups every night to get in better shape for the next time, which hopefully will be soon.